Monday 28 May 2018

Sweatshirts and Hoodies - Beep Beep and Stella

I absolutely love wearing hoodies - I've probably owned 100s over the years. Making the perfect hoodie for myself has been a bit of a holy grail, dressmaking-wise. Last year I made myself the Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood. Although it is really warm and I love the colour (pale pink sweatshirt fabric from Guthrie and Ghani), I've never been completely happy with the fit and style. Recently, my newsfeed has been full of Stella sweatshirts from the new Tilly and the Buttons book. I bought some dark grey sweatshirt fabric with silver glitter stars from Fabrics Galore at GBSB Live back in September which has been waiting for the right project. I decided to make it with the sleeves in a pale grey (also from Fabrics Galore) in a nod to the 90s. 

The pattern actually came free with one of the sewing magazines I subscribe to, so I decided to cut it straight out rather than trace off like I usually do. I cut out a size 3 (my usual size in Tilly patterns), but graded out a bit at the waist. I used sweatshirt ribbing (also from Fabrics Galore) for the cuffs and neck band. I decided to add a waistband after seeing this on someone else's version  as I hate tops and jumpers to be too short, and used the ribbing for this as well. I cut the body pieces and hood from the star fabric and sleeves from pale grey. I used a remnant of grey jersey for the hood lining. Having made hoodies for the kids and myself previously, the construction was straightforward, with the hood itself taking the most work. Tilly's instructions were excellent as ever. I added the buttonholes for the drawstring but wished I hadn't as they weren't completely level so I decided to leave out the drawstring so as not to draw attention to them. I'm really pleased I added the waistband as I like the slightly longer length. I'm really happy with the fit and style of this hoodie - I think this is the pattern I have been looking for!

I had quite a lot of fabric left and I decided to use the leftovers to make the kids a Beep Beep Sweatshirt from Made by Jack's Mum from the latest issue of One Thimble sewing magazine (an awesome digital magazine full of sewing patterns for kids which I have only just discovered). For Polly, I used the star fabric for the body and sleeves and pale grey for the side strips and pockets. I made Thomas's in reverse. This is such a great kid's sweatshirt pattern - I love the raglan sleeves and the side strip/ pockets are a great opportunity to colour block/ stash bust. MBJM always have great instructions as well. I think this is my new favourite kid's jumper pattern. It was so quick to sew and I'm already planning more. I'm not sure I'll ever made the version with the road appliqué, but it is so versatile, I'm sure there will be lots of variations over the years as it goes up to age 12. 

We are off on a glamping holiday today, these are bound to get a lot of wear!








Monday 21 May 2018

Summer in the City - the Zoe Dress

I am absolutely loving this beautiful weather we have been having recently. Even though I've been under the weather, the sun always puts a smile on my face. The only downside is that I work in possibly the hottest office in the universe. Comfortable cotton Summer dresses are a must, so I was really excited when Sew Over It released the Zoe Dress pattern. It is a semi-fitted dress with princess seams and most importantly, in-seam pockets (gotta love a dress with pockets!). I found some beautiful Japanese floral cotton from Higgs and Higgs, which has a heavier weight which is perfect for a slightly more structured dress. 

My measurements came out as a size larger than I usually make, so I cut out in this size. This is quite a straightforward sew, but I struggled with mistakes as I have done with all my recent projects. I've found it quite hard to concentrate while I've been ill. When I'm feeling myself, I'm sure this could be made in a couple of evenings.  The fabric was lovely to sew with, I'd definitely get more in different colour ways/ designs. 

When I tried the dress on, I was disappointed with the fit, it was far too loose and I wished I had made my usual size. I managed to take it in at the back side seams (it was too hard to alter at the front due to the pockets), and that rectified it. I have had this problem a couple of times recently - think I probably need to stick with the size I have made before with particular pattern houses, as I keep making stuff that is too big. 

I'm so pleased with the finished dress, it is perfect Summer work wear, I will be making plenty more!




Saturday 12 May 2018

Back in time - Mila Dungarees

Everywhere I turn at the moment, people are wearing dungarees. While I've been wearing my Cleo dungaree dresses for ages, I haven't taken the plunge with full dungarees yet. When I saw the Mila pattern by Tilly and the Buttons, I decided to give it a go. The last time I wore dungarees was to youth club disco when I was about 13, so these are definitely a blast from the past!

I bought some amazing pineapple print stretch denim from the Denim Company to make a dress a while ago. However, I decided to repurpose as soon as I saw this pattern. Pineapples and dungarees seemed like the perfect combination. The pattern is designed to be quite fitted, so I decided to make a size up as I wanted them to have a looser fit. I managed to cut them out with quite a lot left from 2m - planning bags/hats from the remainder. 

As usual, the instructions from Tilly are fantastic. The first parts of the construction (front and back bibs, pockets and straps) reminded me of making the Cleo dress. I opted for black topstitching rather than the yellow I had initially planned. I was pleased with this decision, as it doesn't detract from the design of the fabric.  Although the instructions were clear, I made a right hash of the waistband. I stitched the inside bands on the wrong way twice and spent a lot of time unpicking. I've been feeling ill, and this project was mainly completed in short bursts as a way of trying to make me feel better. My concentration hasn't been great, so I'm blaming the mistakes on that!

Once I got my head round the waistbands, the rest came together quickly. I finally used some silver buttons I bought for another project years ago that was abandoned. The fit of the bib and waistband was spot on but the legs, especially around my hips and thighs was huge. I increased the seam allowance on inside and outside legs to remedy this. I'm pleased with the final result, although it feels weird to wear dungarees again after all these years. About half way through completing these, I got another dungaree pattern free with a sewing magazine. I might tackle that pattern next.