Sunday 25 February 2018

Dining in style - the Florence Dress

Last Autumn, Gareth and I both celebrated 'big' birthdays. My family arranged a weekend away for us, including train travel, babysitting, luxury apartment and a voucher for a Michelin starred restaurant. The trip came around last week and naturally, this was an excuse to plan a new outfit. I joined the Sew Over It PDF club at the start of the year as part of my mission to get my sew-jo back. I used my joining discount on the Florence Dress pattern, a 70s style maxi dress with button-front, mandarin collar and elasticated waist.  Having decided to make this dress for our trip to Wilks in Bristol, I ummed and ahhed about fabric choice for ages. I had seen an amazing retro print crepe but decided against it in the end - it was fab but there was the risk of looking like I was in fancy dress. In the end, I opted for some lovely floral crepe from the Sew Over It online fabric shop. 

The size of the pattern pieces meant it took even longer than normal to stick the PDF together. If I hadn't been in a rush to get this finished, then I would have used the print shop option and would definitely use that for my next PDF from the club. The dress is quite straightforward to sew, with the buttons and placket probably the only slightly tricky aspect due to the fabric I used. I can't bear clothes to be too tight on the waist (especially if I know I'm going out for a big meal!), but I think I used too much elastic around the waist and as such, it isn't as flattering as it could be (I'm pulling it together at the back in the picture below). I ran out of time to alter it, but I will do this before I wear it again. The length is good for me, and I think I will make another version in brighter colours for the Summer. It's really comfy to wear and very similar to something I saw in a high street shop the other day, which is always pleasing!



We had an amazing time at Wilks - go if you ever get chance!

Sunday 11 February 2018

Victorian style - the Bloomsbury Blouse

I realised recently that I haven't made any smarter tops to wear with jeans for ages (partly because my jeans were pretty tight post-Christmas....).  Thankfully, I've lost most of the mince pie weight, so I decided to tackle the second of my 'Make Nine challenge projects. I bought the Bloomsbury Blouse pattern from Nina Lee's stall at GBSB Live and also bought some beautiful cotton lawn from Doughty's to make it. I had planned to make it back in the Autumn but ran out of time. Once I decided to get on and make this, I went to Abakhan to get some buttons and cut out the fabric that night. 

I decided to make the version with the narrower ruffles, and I had been tempted to leave out the neck ruffles completely, but decided to keep them after seeing So Zo's version. There are a lot of pattern pieces because of the yoke and the ruffles themselves. It was nice to tackle a project which felt like a bit of a challenge again. The majority of this project was straightforward, but making, pinning and sewing the ruffles took a long time. I made it in a size 10, but took a smaller seam allowance as I didn't want it to be too tight. I wish I'd kept to the correct seam allowance because it is a bit loose. My Mum had recently made a version of this blouse and advised me to cut the yoke smaller because I am quite narrow across the shoulders. Foolishly, I ignored this advice (I'm sure there's a lesson in this), and the edge of the ruffle sits a bit lower than my shoulders. 

Despite these minor issues, I am really pleased with the blouse. It's on-trend, but really wearable. I have worn it with jeans, but it would also look good worn with a pencil skirt for work. I will definitely be making another version, maybe a sleeveless one for Summer, but will alter the width of the yoke and take the correct seam allowance. This was the first Nina Lee pattern I've made, and I really enjoyed making it. I've got my eye on the Southbank Sweater Dress next. 




Friday 2 February 2018

A Winter Warmer - the Blackwood Cardigan

At this time of year, my (semi-smart) work uniform consists of dresses, boots and long cardigans, or sometimes jeans, boots and long cardigans. I have a couple of cardies I wear to death and have been on the lookout for a pattern and the right fabric to make some replacements. I came across the Blackwood Cardigan by Helen's Closet and the longer version seemed perfect so I added this to my 'Make 9' list for 2018. Scrolling through Facebook (looking at sewings stuff obvs), I saw some textured, cable knit style jersey by Higgs and Higgs. I have never bought fabric from them before but I had to have this as soon as I saw it. I was delighted when it came - it is heavyweight, so nice and warm and the colour I chose (pale green) was beautiful. 

I could only buy a PDF version of the pattern in the UK, but luckily I had a willing helper (Thomas) to stick it all together (with supervision!).  I was surprised at the number of pattern pieces for a seemingly simple garment, but the extra features such as the hem and collar band make a lot of difference. My overlocker has been playing up for a while - I think it needs to go in for a service but I can't bear to be parted from it. It can finish seams but the stitch is too loose for sewing with, so I decided to make this using a ballpoint needle and zig zag stitch on the regular machine. Because the fabric is thick with a couple of layers, it looked as though it might fray, so I finished the seams with the overlocker as I would do for a woven fabric. 

The instructions were excellent, and I would recommend this pattern to anyone. There are a couple of trickier techniques, but on the whole it's a very straightforward and satisfying project. The longer version took a couple of evenings to sew, mainly because of its size. I am over the moon with the fabric choice - it's so warm and comfy. I'm planning at least one more in another colour. I also think the short version would make a smarter cardigan to wear with a pencil skirt on days I have meetings. 

Here I am wearing it this morning: